We are still speechless…that’s because of the show of Bibi van der Velden (a well-known Dutch Jewelry designer and artist). It was the last show of the Amsterdam Fashion week 2010. Definitely Goosebumps! One by one the models walked in trough a tunnel… of blue laser lights. All of them wore skin coloured or black underwear. It looked like little ballet ensembles. The audience felt immediately overwhelmed because the first model said under load volume: “ Can anybody hear me?”

Carried along and it was like If you suddenly walked in that tunnel. One of the models showed spherical shaping bracelets and another model showed a chain with air bubbles of glass and high-heels looked like icicles. There were a lot of conspicuous ornaments such as bulb-shaped sculptures for the head, knees and chest. Also they showed iron masks and caps. The last model was Ifke Sturm. Definitely last but not least! Must be the reason but she was Queen of the tunnel or…..Oops show! A very Beautiful and spectacular show from beginning to end.

Pictures: Peter Stigter

Amsterdam – A year has passed since Malou Verharen and Ferdinand Sebastiaan Hartgers showed their first  work at AIFW. They both graduated from Utrecht’s School of the Arts in 2008 and started the brand ‘Marlousebastiaan‘. You cannot tell by their work that they have just popped out of school.

I saw a model walking through the lounge earlier that day. Her hair was tied up into two buns. Both buns were decorated with beige blocks. “Cool” I thought, it seemed to hint at some kind of uniqueness I had not seen before. The sandy colored blocks reminded me of dried land. But it looked classy, feminine, a little childlike too. After showing us a mysterious (really short) film the first model came down the catwalk. The girl that had been sitting next to me during the  Karssenberg/Greidanus show pulled her camera out of her bag and started taking pictures.

The outfits that the first model wore had a prehistoric sense to it. It was a beige top and pants made out of bone shaped figures. It seemed that nature had been the inspiration for the color pallet; the fleshy beige, moss green, a bright flowerish salmon and icy blue.

It looked like the outfits had become part of the models bodies. The models even had an animal-like walk, a graceful one.

Lifu Hsiao, how is born in Taiwan, graduated at the Fashion Institute Arnhem in 2008. After working at Veronique Branquinho in 2009, Hsiao is now launching his own womens label.

For his a/w collection Hsiao was inspired by his favorite pianist Glenn Gould, playing the Goldberg variations from J.S. Bach. He associate his interpretation with the Amish people.

The religious and somewhat restrained dress of the Amish is visible in reversed shoulder pads, which create an oblique shoulder line.The modern and refined collection displays a full range of womenswear, including skirts, dresses coats, blouses, trouser and shirts.

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Fashion designer Hyun Yeu presents “RAIN” the second collection from his menswear label “ADO LES SCENTS”. The Korean designer Hyun Yeu graduated at the Gerrit Rietveld Academy in 2008. In 2009 he won the Frans Molenaar competition and started his own menswear label. With ‘ADO LES SCENTA’ the label aims at young minded men that are not afraid to stand out.

‘Rain’ is a menswear collection based on having fun on a rainy day and about daring to face the rain with a smile. The main character in the collection is the coat. Classic menswear items as suits, shirts and pants are combined with youthful and playful garments, the cape, rain coat and bomber jacket. A lot of attention was paid to the development of form, fit and cut of different garments. This has resulted in beautifully tailored jackets, sharp shirts and comfortable knitwear. The collection is smartly styled with classic black and dark blue brogues by Van Bommel and leather gloves by Gloves by Pia. Read More

Marloes completed her master year at the Fashion Institute Arnhem in 2009 and presented her collection, ‘Tolinger” during the Paris and Amsterdam International Fashion Week. This gave her the drive and motivation to continue her work as a designer.

As a designer Marloes have always been interested in old an traditional patterns. It always claims a roll in her collections, in shape, material en craft. That is why she is always looking for old tailoring and functionality in clothing.

The collections was made from wool, cotton, leather and silk. We saw knitting and a lot of embroidery. Natural colours like browns, beige, creme and whites where the main colours. Blue was the only colour accent that was used. The collection is based on old patterns patterns.

A collection that brings the past into the present.

Before Amsterdam International Fashion Week started Fesjon got the opportunity to interview Marloes.

Linda Valkeman is travelling all over the world and collect everything she find. She is very fascinated by the timlessness of the things she collect. The fact that lives like a nomad influences here work, which she describes as highspeed folklore.

The collection is handmade form unexpected handmade materials (pieces of embroidery) the shapes she just for here collection made the collection very futuristic where tradition and humor are key. The colours of the collection are mostly earth tones, blacks and blues. Linda is seeing here collection as a inspiration for a more wearable collection. You can follow Linda’s journey through her site www.lindavalkeman.nl

After the show Fesjon had the opportunity to interview Linda. The interview will soon be available at FesjonTV.

Pictures: Peter Stigter

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The catwalkshow of INDIVIDUALS was great during the Amsterdam International Fashion Week. The collection “The Porcelain Papillon” radiates a lot of femininity. The multi-toned en wearable collection is a tribute to the flattering curves of the feminine body.

The students of AMFI (Amsterdam Fashion Institute) have made a beautiful and elegant collection for a/w 2010. The designs inspired by the year ‘30 look constists colors like black, white, grey, nude, red and yellow. Striking were the overknee stockings and lak pumps fitting in every design. The models (with red lips and water waved hair) striked a year ‘30 look.

INDIVIDUALS is a new clothing label, designed and made by AMFI (Amsterdam Fashion Institute) students. Twice a year they design and present their collection.

For more information www.byamfi.nl

Pictures: by AMFI

Last week on January 28th during the twelfth edition of AIFW Mada van Gaans exposed her fall/winter 2010 collection.

Her new collection showed in the beginning a little equation from her previous collection that was inspired by snakes.
But nothing seemed what it looked like.
It was a successful collection that looked like a good follow-tailed from her previous collection.
This time “The serpent goddess”, also known as the snake goddess of Greece, inspired Mada for this collection. Read More

AMSTERDAM, The Netherlands – Last week there were lots of designers, an impressive amount of 25 fashion shows, presentations, expositions and lectures passed in review! The front row was packed with famous Dutch people and everyone spoke about the great amount of ‘budget models’, the ‘vibe’, the ‘ haute retail’ and the ‘feeling for tailoring’!! Sunday was the closing of the AIFW, The Official Closing Party @ Werck. With enthusiastic foreign press and hairdressers (the party was sponsored by Redken!) it wasn’t what I expected! Although there was a good vibe with help from the dj’s and the saxophonist. The glitter confetti made a nice entourage!!

Pictures: Philippine Kaiser/Fesjon.com

The collection of Karssenberg Greidanus came across as moody and a little dark, but not completely. The designers Sanna Karssenberg and Cleo Greidanuswere playing with the contrasts rough and refined. They used ‘colorless’ fabrics like beige on one hand and gray, brown and black on the other.

The ways in which they played with the shapes of their creations had some obvious contrasts. They had tight dresses, skirts and tops, but created some items that allowed the fabrics to comfortably hang around the models bodies. A leather pants with a harem feel to it, is a great example of the ways in which the designers tried to mix edginess with ease in one design. They did this by using wool and leather, or a dark  and beige colored fabrics.

Some of the models were carrying chains, studs and spikes  as apart of their garment as they strolled down the runway. Their collection may look quite simple, or plain, but contains quite a lot of details. And designers, despite the moody feel this collection may seem to transcend, still allowed the softer and more delicate pieces to reveal their strength.

Pictures: Peter Stigter